The importance of the role of
weaving in West Africa cannot be overestimated. It has a
role in all aspects of life—the domestic, social,
commercial and religious. The European during the colonial
period brought to West Africa the four harness loom and
though this loom is in use (I saw one weaver using this loom
in the Kumasi Cultural Center) it is disregarded by the vast
majority of weavers in favor of the strip weaving loom.
Cloth is imported and used by West Africans, but still it is
the narrow strip weaving that provides employment for
weavers across West Africa. Blankets, bags, sheets, rugs,
tent dividers, pillows, umbrellas, shawls, head cloths,
trousers, robes, smocks, etc… are just a few of the
products produced by the strip weaver. Imported fabrics
cannot replace the strength and durability of this fabric—nor
the aesthetic.
The history of the strip loom
in West Africa has its origins in tradition and folklore.
However, in all probability the loom came to West Africa via
the trans-Saharan trade routes. The introduction of the
strip loom along with the cultivation of cotton occurred
sometime during the 11th century AD. The Ashante
loom is said to have been brought from the Bondouku area in
the Ivory Coast to Bonwire by a man name Ota Kraban sometime
in 1600 AD. He brought the loom on a Friday—hence the name
of the loom "nasdua kofi" — or "loom
Friday" — (Wrapped in Pride — Doran H. Ross).
No one truly knows how or
when weaving came to this area of the world—and until
historians and scientists can provide a definitive answer we
can all be charmed with the story of Anansi, the spider. We
along with the Ashante and all West African weavers can
believe that it was this folk hero who gave the weavers the
Gift of the Magic Thread.
Bibliography
Adler, Peter and Nicholas
Barnard: African Majesty, the Textile Art of The
Ashante and Ewe
Thames and Hudson, Ltd., London — 1992
Ahiagble, Gilbert and Louise
Meyer: Master Weaver from Ghana Open Hand Publishing, Seattle,
Washington 1998
Broudy, Eric: The Book of
Looms Brown University Press, London 1979
Lamb, Venice: West African
Weaving Duckworth and Co., Ltd., London—1975
Ross, Doran: Wrapped in
Pride, Ghanaian Kente and African American Identity
UCLA Fowler Museum of
Cultural History and the Newark Museum — 1998
Schaedler, Karl-Ferdinand: Weaving
in Africa, South of the Sahara Panterra-Verlag, Druckhaus Munchen,
West Germany --1987
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